Hello, Beauties🌸 Today’s post, Do You the Remember Vivid Sportswear Designer, Willi Smith?
This month I pulled back the African American fashion history curtain with two little known New York Fashion dressmakers. The first, Playboy costume designer, Zelda Wynn Valdes, and second Ann Lowe, designer of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy’s wedding gown.
It was all about timing for Willi Donnell Smith, born February 29, 1948, in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. No longer unnamed but able to be recognized at viable African American fashion contributor.
The Smith story: Smith studied commercial art at Mastbaum Technical High School and fashion illustration at the Philadelphia College of Art. His artistic talent earned him two full scholarship to Parsons School of Design in New York City in 1965.
Mr. Smith quit school in 1967 to freelance for Arnold Scaasi and Bobbie Brooks sportswear. Two years later, he met his future business partner Laurie Mallet. In 1976, Smith and Laurie launched his line of women’s wear under the label, WilliWear Limited in a showroom off Seventh Avenue in New York City’s Garment District.
I say, the vivid sportswear designer because, during the late 1970s when Smith launched his 12-piece collection, it was bold yet affordable. Does anyone remember the days of the prime time soap opera Dynasty (1981 – 1989?) A time we emulated the big hair, shoulder pads, and bold door knocker earrings?
According to 50 Years of the Council of Fashion Designers of America Impact book, Willi Smith inspired, he said, not by Paris but by Sunday church in Harlem. His WilliWear line, characterized by loose silhouettes in brightly colored natural fabrics. Exuberant and witty, his clothes were sophisticated, yet inexpensive.
Signature garments, such as violet linen blazers and loose cotton separates, appealed to both men and women. His “street couture” had a significant impact on fashion in the 1980s.
The 1980s, Smith, peaked at a time when black fashion designers began to gain official recognition. In 1976, he increased his sales from $30,000 to $25 million worth of clothing by 1986 — his line, featured in more than 500 department and specialty stores.
Awards and Recognition:
The 1970s: Patterns for Butterick, McCalls, and Simplicity
1978: Began lecturing Art History at the Fashion Institute, London
1983: Coty American Fashion Critics Award for Women’s Fashions
1985: Cutty Sark Award for his debut men’s collection
1986: Created the Navy Linen suits with Silver ties for Edwin Schlossberg and his groomsmen when he married Caroline Kennedy
1987: Costume Designer for Spike Lee’s film School Daze
1987: Designed the wedding dress worn by Mary Jane Watson when she married Peter Parker in the Spider-Man Comic Book
1987: First store opened posthumously in Paris
1987: Featured in Harlem Museum Exhibit
1988: Then New York City Mayor David Dinkins proclaimed February 23 “Willi Smith Day” in honor of his achievements
2002: Smith honored with a bronze plaque for Fashion Walk of Fame along Seventh Avenue
2016: Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology Black Fashion Designer’s Exhibit
On April 16, 1987, Smith, died unexpectedly at the age of 39 after contracting pneumonia while on a fabric buying trip to India, apparently as a result of AIDS. Sister and model, Tookie who often modeled his designs, survives him.
Willi Smith, declared by newspaper fashion writer, Liz Rittersporn, with the New York Daily News in 1987, “as indisputably, the most successful black designer in fashion history.”
Do you remember the vivid sportswear designer, Willi Smith? I know I sometimes see his label, WilliWear in T. J. Maxx stores.
How about you?
Oh, here’s a full view of this week’s mural by Vera Primavera, a Latina muralist.
As always thank you for reading! Have a fabulous week.
