Do you want to experience slow-down travel hospitality? If so, visit the Center of Portugal.
Since the COVID-19 health pandemic shut down, travelers, including myself, are reevaluating their travel experiences. I believe the correct term is transformational travel. This type of travel encourages one to disconnect from their busy lives to learn new skills and engage in the local community to expand their cultural knowledge and understanding.
So, I agreed back in January when fellow influencer Val Hansen asked me to join her on a press tour to Portugal. I started packing and getting excited to gain insight into the slow-down travel offered by the Center of Portugal.
I took my direct flight from Dulles Airport to Lisbon, Portugal, a hectic but efficient airport. We both arrived at Lisbon Terminal 1 around the same time. I met Val near the rental station after navigating to carousel #19 for my bags and finding where to go. Solo travel is not for the faint at heart.
A different travel story: on my first trip to Portugal in 2019 via Ama Waterways Duoro River Cruise, my hubby and I received car service to our hotel.
It’s worth noting that Val and I connected virtually in February 2017 through the midlife group Fierce 50, so it was a pleasure to meet in person finally. The Center of Portugal Tourism Board provided a rental car at the Lisbon airport. I wasn’t comfortable driving in a foreign country, so Val did all the driving. The Toyota Yarris vehicle was perfect for our luggage and a three-hour drive to the Center of Portugal.
Here’s the itinerary of the five-day press tour of the Center of Portugal:
How about The Nest Cooking and Nature Guesthouse chic check-in basket by Victoria with your room key and pertinent information?
Day One: Alvados
Lunch: Terruja at Cooking and Nature
Superb Farm-to-Table meal prepared by Terruja Chef/owner Diogo Caetano
Day One: Dinner: Cooking Experience
Recipes by Chef Nuno Barros: We made:
Appetizer: Alcobaca Apple Tarts, Onion Jam, and Rice Blood Pudding
Main Course: Cod Fasih with Almond And Herb Crusts and Vegetables Bras and Serra D’Aire Olive Oil
Dessert: Chocolate Lava Cake with Raspberry Sorbet
Accommodations: My stories revealed a beautiful room with a round bed and soaker tub. How about breakfast delivered in Victoria’s handmade basket, sustainably made in Portugal?
At The Nest by Cooking and Nature Country House, wellness activities include a hiking trail network, e-bike trails, horseback riding, cooking lessons, pottery classes, outdoor swimming, and spa services.
Day Two: Castelo Novo
Castelo Novo is another ancient village with winding cobblestone streets where people still reside. All the original buildings remain sturdy, likely due to their construction of enduring, everlasting granite rock.
The center of town consists of a 16th-century former town hall and pillory and the D. Joāo V. Fountain
How about this Castelo Novo 18th-century single-stream fountain with the coat of arms of King D.Joāo V? The “Bica” fountain water freely flows from the mountain. The locals come and fill up their jugs with the fresh spring water.
Another 16th-century fountain of stone that is still flowing today.
Castelo Novo Lunch at The Pedra Nova. This space also accommodates guests who want to stay in assorted suites based on their family’s needs.
Selfcare activities include swimming, massages, and a botanical arts retreat. Donkey ride, anyone?
Day Two: Belmonte
The medieval castle represents Roman influence on the Iberian Peninsula during Roman occupation. Interestingly, none of the historic villages in the Center of Portugal have UNESCO designations.
Val and I feel regal overlooking the beautiful landscape in the Center of Portugal from the Castelo Belmonte.
I didn’t know Belmonte was famous for being the birthplace of Pedro Alvares Cabral, the navigator who discovered Brazil. From the 16th to the early 19th century, Portugal colonized Brazil as an integral part of the Portuguese empire.
Our fabulous tour guide, Duarte Rodrigues, Val, and I stopped for a cool beverage and a gelato at Cabralina, a short walk from Castelo Belmonte.
Next stop: Sortelha
Lunch at Cardo Taberna & Mercearia
Sharing of small plates and tapas with wine
Day Three: Walking Tour of Belmonte and Sorthelha
Sorthelha is another historic village with a remarkable view over a boulder-strewn landscape from its hilltop location.
In Portugal, a pillory signifies great importance dating back to Roman times, with criminals on display for their crimes.
The Sortelha Castle is the oldest Romanesque castle in the Beira Interior region.
When I started to recap this trip to the Center of Portugal, The Vagar Country House was the best example of slow-down hospitality. The 200 acres’ peacefulness and serenity are the best definition of transformational travel. The owners spent six years designing and rehabilitating the homes and grounds with the assistance of minimalist interior designer Ligia Casanova.
Day Three Evening: Dinner and accommodations at The Vagar Country House in Belmonte
The Vagar House offers boutique experiences to relax and decompress in a charming minimalist atmosphere.
Activities include:
Ice bath, Aromatic Bath, relaxing Massage for one or two, Picnic lunch, Yoga and Meditation classes, alfresco dining, and swimming in the infinity pool. Soon, Glamping!
On our last evening in Belmonte, we enjoyed a Jeep tour around The Vagar Country House’s 200 acres.
Day Four Morning: Wines of Beira Interior
On a one-hour tour of the family-owned Quinta dos Termos, we saw how the winery is equipped with sophisticated technology and certified in integrated production—ecological wines heeding traditional techniques. A wine tasting is the ultimate way to experience some of the thirty-two varieties Quinta dos Termos made.
Day Four Afternoon: Tour of Trancoso
Trancoso is still a medieval town strongly influenced by its ancient Jewish presence. The streets still remind you of an age when the Hebrew celebrations in Beira lands.
Lunch at San Marcos Restaurant in Trancoso
Day Four Afternoon: Tour Côa Musem
At the Côa Museum, we learned about the discovery and preservation of prehistoric Rock Art in the Côa Valley.
Casa da Cisterna, located in the medieval town of Castelo Rodrigo, overlooks the Ribacoa Plateau. Hubby and I visited this village in 2019 on our Ama Waterways Duouro river cruise before heading to Spain.
Accommodations: Casa da Cisterna in the historic Castelo Rodrigo village. Another example of slow-down hospitality is the Center of Portugal.
The name Casa da Cisterna dates back to the use of the old cistern, which served as the village’s water reservoir. Speaking of water, how about the Casa da Cisterna swimming pool in a park-like retreat?
Day Four Late Evening experience
Castelo Rodrigo’s Cisterna Guesthouse’s owners are entrepreneurs and biologists. One of our gracious hosts, Ana Berlinger, guided us on a nighttime tour (the best time to view the rock art) to Côa Park’s UNESCO World Heritage engravings. The Prehistoric Rock Art Site of the Côa Valley, an open-air Paleolithic archaeological site, received The UNESCO World Heritage site designation on December 2, 1998. It was an eerie drive, but it was worth seeing this historic treasure.
Day Five:
Casa da Cisterna at Costelo Rodrigo
So, I mentioned that our gracious hosts at Casa da Cisterna are biologists. Ana’s husband, Antonio, took Val and me on the most intriguing expedition of our trip to the Center of Portugal. Antonio’s Ph.D. studies allowed us to view his current study of the behavior and value of vultures and their importance in the ecosystem.
It’s worth noting that vultures are scavengers and feed primarily on carrion. According to the Wildlife Center of Virginia, vultures rid the landscape of deteriorating carcasses and help curb the spread of dangerous diseases and bacteria. Their stomachs have vital enzymes that kill off hazardous toxins and microorganisms.
You’ve heard the saying, Once is Not Enough. I’m thankful for the opportunity to return to Portugal this time to observe and learn about slow-down hospitality in the Center of Portugal.
In conclusion, here are my slow-down hospitality observations from this trip:
🚘 The three-hour drive from Lisbon is worth indulging in slow-down, conscious travel
🍽 Farm-to-table dining with plenty of fresh fish, especially cod, and grilled sardines
💦 The endless water supply from the mountains captured by fountains or pails
📸 Captivating natural beauty
🗺 We enjoyed exploring and discovering the living history of five out of the 12 historic villages we visited in the Center of Portugal.
If you want to experience slow-down hospitality, the laid-back locals who warmly greet you, hearty cuisines, and stunning landscapes, you must visit The Center of Portugal.
Thank you for visiting The Age of Grace.
