FifthAvenue
When I think of Fifth Avenue, I think of women wearing hats and gloves and sashaying in furs while walking their pedigreed dogs. Perhaps I have watched way too many film noir movies. Anyhow, I am still learning about the rich culture that is well-established in Manhattan, especially on the Upper East Side.

Dressing down a ball gown

My daughter lives within walking distance of some of the most prestigious properties in New York, including Fifth Avenue, with its exclusive shops and rich history housed in some of the most fabulous museums. We walked right over to Fifth Avenue.

Dressing down a ball gown

My last visit to New York City included a Polyvore Meetup and the opportunity to enjoy great weather while strolling along Fifth Avenue, admiring the well-kept buildings, offices, and museums. As we walked, we noticed ten museums along the one-mile radius called Museum Mile. Every year, all ten museums along Museum Mile participate in a festival where one can visit all the museums on Fifth Avenue for free. This year, the date was June 10.

My choice of museum is The Metropolitan Museum of Art at 82nd Street on Fifth Avenue.  For sure, it was the Charles James exhibit that drew me. Last year, there was an exciting punk rock exhibit, and this year, it was couture by a name I was unfamiliar with, but I welcomed the opportunity to learn about his work.

Cecil Beaton photo captured James' consummate artistry with draping and color in this brilliantly staged photograph of models caught in elegant repose.
Cecil Beaton’s photo captured James’ consummate artistry with draping and color in this brilliantly staged photograph of models caught in elegant repose.

This year’s annual Met Gala ushered in the newly renovated Costume Institute with the Charles James Exhibit’s “Beyond Fashion,” oh my, just magnificent. Who knew?  Those society ladies living on Fifth Avenue knew Charles James all too well.  To name a few, Barbara “Babe” Paley, former fashion editor at Vogue and wife of William Paley, founder of CBS.  Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitney (Eleanor Searle), you know the name of Mrs. Millicent Rogers, granddaughter of Standard Oil tycoon Henry Huttleston Rogers.

1950 photo of Mrs. William S. (Babe) Paley at her home, Kiluna Farm in North Hills, Long Island, New York. Detail of photo by John Rawlings. Fifth Avenue inspiration from the Charles James Met exhibit
1950 photo of Mrs. William S. (Babe) Paley at her home, Kiluna Farm, in North Hills, Long Island, New York. Detail of photo by John Rawlings.

The Charles James exhibit “Beyond Fashion” runs until August 8. I say it’s worth seeing the 78 spotlighted ball gowns with iconic names: The Swan, The Tree, The Clover Leaf, and The Butterfly. On one floor, the exhibit continued on another floor that shared his talents beyond the ball gowns. We ventured to another floor to explore and learn that he invented the strapless style, the wrap dress, the use of the zipper on a formal, the swan-down puffer jacket, the sports bra, and the opera coat.

CharlesJamesExhibit

Clover Leaf at the NY Metropolitan Museum exhibit, original design owned by Babe Paley. Fifth Avenue inspiration at the Met Charles James exhibit.
Clover Leaf is at the NY Metropolitan Museum exhibit, and Babe Paley owns the original design.
Butterfly Ball Gown, ca. 1955. Brown silt chiffon, cream silk satin, and dark brown nylon tulle. Fifth Avenue inspiration at the Charles James Met Exhibit
Butterfly Ball Gown, ca. 1955. Brown silt chiffon, cream silk satin, and dark brown nylon tulle.

Why was Charles James a forgotten genius in the fashion world?  It seems that Diana Vreeland, the most powerful and influential fashion editor for half a century, kept Charles James’s work from appearing on the pages of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue when she was fashion editor (1936-1962) and editor-in-chief (1963 to 1971), respectively.  Why?  What happened between them?

Photo of Charles James, he was almost maniacal in his attention to details. This fit and flare LBD took him hours of fitting just to get the right proportion.
This is a photo of Charles James. His attention to detail was almost maniacal. This fit-and-flare LBD took him hours to fit just to get the right proportion.

It’s a shame that his work was not revered when he was alive to receive its praise, but now anyone can explore the beautiful custom designs of Charles James until early August at the Metropolitan Museum of Arts. I hope you get the opportunity to enjoy it!